What makes Cheltenham such a life-affirming experience? It's definitely not the 'Balearic beats'

Cheltenham used to be described as Christmas for grown-ups, and we all know the trouble with Christmas is that the build-up starts earlier every year, it's overhyped, over-commercialised and you wake up the following day with a throbbing head and an empty bank account.

And, just like Christmas, it's easy enough to moan about the festival, complain it's not what it was, or even opt out entirely. As the tape goes up for the Supreme Novices' Hurdle, you can focus on Sedgefield and Southwell – racing's equivalent of doing your tax return on Christmas Day.

Or you can grit your teeth, suck it up, fight your way along Cotswold road and rail networks that make Cheltenham Spa seem like the lost valley of Shangri-La, and join the near 70,000 others who are grimly determined to have a good time.