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'He was magnificent' - France's finest pay homage to legendary figure
Death has little respect for the calendar but, outside of Epsom and Newmarket, if there is one course in the world where it seems right to be racing on the day Lester Piggott left us, Longchamp must be very close to the top.
It was the scene of some of Lester's greatest triumphs, as well as arguably his biggest disappointment with the defeat of Nijinsky at the hands of an Yves Saint-Martin-inspired Sassafras in the 1970 Arc.
Obituary: child prodigy who blossomed into a riding legend and statesman
One of the bigger Sundays in the year in the Bois de Boulogne features the Prix Saint-Alary, a race Piggott won in 1975 with Nobiliary before Maurice Zilber's teak-tough filly went on to run a remarkable second against the colts in the Derby at Epsom.
On days like this, racecourses are places to retell old stories and plenty here have reason to remember Piggott, who famously stole Alain Lequex's whip at Deauville, much to the annoyance of the French stewards.
Piggott became Britain's first jetset jockey and spent many of his Sundays in Paris or elsewhere in continental Europe at a time when British tracks were Monday to Saturday venues.
Heading into the weighing room ahead of his ride on Wild Beauty, William Buick has inherited that routine and is happy to start the storytelling.
"He's a true legend of our sport and what he achieved won't be achieved again," says Buick. "What stands out the most is his nine Derby wins – that won't be matched. Then there is his longevity and his sheer brilliance.
"He rode a winner for my father when he trained in Germany. When that filly won I had a great picture together with him in the winner's enclosure.
"Obviously it's a long time ago, but I still have that picture. It was a great day and while it was towards the end of his career and not of any great importance to him, it was a great day for us."
Olivier Baldauf may be a less familiar name, but Ellie Lellouche's long-time travelling head lad – and now a go-to freelance for many visiting British and Irish trainers – is just as struck by the importance of the day.
"I remember being there when Teenoso won the Grand Prix de Saint-Cloud [in 1984]," says Baldauf. "Lester took a blow from the horse before the race and had blood on his face.
"He won the race and I still remember he reached back to pat Teenoso behind, congratulating him. I was a 15-year-old kid and only just entering the world of racing, but he made a big impression that day."
Black armbands have been suggested by the officials for the third race, the main betting handicap of the day.
But by the time the seven riders file out for the opening Group race 35 minutes earlier, it is clear nobody is in the mood to wait for either the Quinte or the planned minute's silence between the Saint-Alary and the day's other Group 1, the Prix d'Ispahan.
Gerald Mosse is the last member of the weighing-room fraternity here to have ridden against Piggott, and describes the great man for the benefit of the crowd around the parade ring.
'It has been a wonderful life, really - you couldn't ask for any more'
Across the tree-lined paddock, Freddy Head is of an even grander vintage and is ready to raid the treasure trove of memories he has, having often sat next to Lester.
"I liked him a lot and as well as being a great personality and a great jockey, he was charming," says Head, who burst on to the scene as a teenager in the 1960s, when Piggott was in his pomp.
"When I was 20 I beat him in the Irish Guineas [on King's Company] and we'd gone at it toe to toe at the end. He said to me, 'Who do you think you are waving your whip around like that?' He had a great sense of humour."
Head also recalled their familial ties, his grandfather William having often retold the story of losing out to Piggott's in the 1919 Grand National.
He concludes: "It's the end of an era, he was magnificent."
It is almost impossible to imagine the level of fame Piggott achieved in his heyday, but one man who doesn't need to play any trick of the mind in that respect is Saint-Martin, six years his junior and France's own media phenomenon in the saddle.
Theirs was a cross-channel rivalry which blossomed into first respect and then friendship. I well remember seeing Saint-Martin walking up to John Gosden at Deauville a decade ago, his first question being: "How's Lester?"
Saint-Martin rations his racecourse visits now, but his memory remains crystal clear of their famous duels as we speak on the phone in a near-deserted press room.
"He was the greatest jockey I ever encountered and it's very sad, although the news hadn't been great the last few days," says Saint-Martin, the emotion clear in his voice.
He is nearly always asked about beating Nijinsky, but Piggott had his revenge three years later when steering Rheingold to a famous defeat of Allez France, the Queen of Longchamp.
"We had some great battles together and he came out on top more often than me," he says. "But I think there was a great mutual respect for each other's professionalism and style in the saddle.
"We rode together all over the world and were often down in South Africa for team events. Once he came straight from Brazil and brought me a box of cigars."
Saint-Martin's modesty was part of his appeal in the heyday of the Tierce, when television reporters like Leon Zitrone made him one of France's most recognisable faces.
"We were great friends and when I went to Newmarket I always went to his house," says Saint-Martin. "We were linked together in many ways and our stories often ran together.
"On the track we each fought our corner, but that never stopped us being friends out of the saddle."
Lester Piggott:
Obituary: child prodigy who blossomed into a riding legend and statesman
The remarkable facts and figures behind Lester Piggott's career
In his own words: 'It was quite a bad punishment, wasn't it? It was almost inhumane'
Lester Piggott Q&A: a brilliant interview with the record-breaking champion
Appreciation: 'His cut-throat mentality was unmatched in the history of the turf'
'He was my idol growing up' - Mick Kinane on his admiration for Lester Piggott
Aidan O'Brien: 'Incredible man' Lester Piggott left unbelievable mark on us all
Racecourse brilliance and quieter moments: Lester Piggott in photographs
'Lester went wrong way round a roundabout to pass me! No wonder he was champion'
Nine Derbys, 30 British Classics and winners worldwide - Lester by the numbers
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