Opinion

Watch, listen and taste: our man in Paris has eight suggestions to ensure you enjoy Arc weekend

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France correspondent
The Arc de Triomphe
The Arc de Triomphe Credit: Edward Whitaker

The Olympic rings may have come down off the Eiffel Tower but the city that thrilled the world throughout the summer is still a playground for lovers of sport and all the fine things in life. Here are eight ways to make the most of your Arc experience.



1 Use the new grandstand to best advantage

Although there was a little bit more reserved seating up for sale this year, the main Longchamp experience in the new grandstand is an itinerant one, meaning you will have the chance to try out the view from a variety of spots. And with the Arc not until race five, there's a chance to experiment. Consider a spot at the end of the stand furthest from the winning post where you will have a great view of the horses coming out and back in and still be able to see the finishes.

2 Watch the winners come back in

If you have anything other than a ticket for the Arc Gardens enclosure, you should have access out of the back of the grandstand to the steps around the tree-lined paddock. There are plenty of big screens so for at least one of the Group 1s, grab your spot early, study the runners and then stay on to cheer the winner (and losers) back in.

British and Irish racegoers will once again flock to Longchamp for what this year will be Frankie Dettori's final Arc
A moment to treasure: Crowds pack the parade ring steppings to catch a glimpse of Enable after the 2018 ArcCredit: Edward Whitaker

3 Allow plenty of time to get away at the end of the day

Those who are not booked to stay in Paris on Sunday evening should work backwards from the time they need to be at their station or airport of departure, and then double it. Many in the city will have been away for the day or the weekend and, while no match for weekdays, the Sunday evening rush hour is not to be underestimated.

4 Watch your speed!

City Hall announced shortly after the end of the Games that the speed limit would be reduced on the Boulevard Peripherique – the city's main interior ring road – from 70kph to 50kph, starting on October 1. The new limits are in force on only part of the road as of now, with recent experience suggesting the southern section is the place to be most careful.

5 Make use of public transport

The new limits mean not only driving but potentially taking a cab or a private hire car (Uber and the like) will be more time-consuming. The tried-and-trusted public transport options are to make your way to either Porte Maillot (RER A or Metro line 1) or Porte d'Auteuil (Metro line 10) and take the free shuttle buses (navettes) to Longchamp from there.

6 Catch a match

At 9pm on Saturday Paris Saint-Germain are home to Strasbourg in Ligue 1, a short hop from Longchamp at the Parc des Princes, with resale tickets available on the PSG site. And if you want to check out the new Adidas Arena up at Port de la Chapelle – host to an epic Olympic men's basketball final between the USA and France – then Paris host Crvena Zvelda Belgrade on Friday evening, tickets available here.

7 Book dinner in advance

You are going to spend plenty at the races, but you should aim to dine well in the evenings, either in anticipation of Bluestocking or Mqse De Sevigne paying off a healthy chunk of your expenses the next day, or having already safely collected on the Kinross/Ramatuelle forecast in either order (couple-gagnant) after the Foret. Book in advance to avoid any risk of seeing the tetchier side of Parisian waiting staff, especially on Sunday evening, when not all restaurants are open.

Bluestocking and Rossa Ryan after winning the Group 1 Pretty Polly Stakes
Will Bluestocking and Rossa Ryan be paying for dinner in Paris after the Arc on Sunday evening?Credit: Patrick McCann

8 Three addresses to note

Everything is a matter of personal taste, but here are three places that have earned repeat business with your correspondent:

Vagenende (Metro Mabillon or Odeon) – Classic Boulevard Saint-Germain venue in the same neighbourhood as more famous Brasserie Lipp and Deux Magots, but with fewer influencers taking pictures of their food.

Les Telephones (Metro Ecole Militaire) – in charming Rue Cler, which hosts a market by day and is limited to pedestrians. Nostalgic interior and sharp bistro cuisine. Le Petit Cler on the same street is another very solid option.

L'Acanthe (Metro Hotel de Ville) – In the maze of eateries in and around the Marais, this is a surefire winner in terms of simple food well done in a convivial atmosphere. Only open Friday and Saturday so don't save it for your last night!


Read more here:

'He's much shorter in the betting but we can all see there isn't much between them' - the key Arc quotes to note 

Confirmed runners and riders for the 2024 Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe at Longchamp - plus draw details, tip and free bet 

Who will win the 2024 Prix de l'Arc de Triomphe based on previous trends? 


Looking for free bets? Racing Post have got the best offers, all in one place. Visit racingpost.com/freebets to find out more.


Published on inPrix de l'Arc de Triomphe

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