Europe's hidden jewel keeps Italian racing flame burning in Milan

Italy, the destination of choice for legions of holidaymakers, a land of stunning beauty, ancient cities and la dolce vita. Some 50 million tourists descend on this ancient country each year and, according to some highly scientific research on Google, the reasons for visiting include pizza, pasta, pizza, ice cream, pizza, wine and, conceivably, some other things. But what does this country hold for the racing aficionado?

The popular image of Italian racing overseas, such as there is one, is of an impoverished sport long reduced from its former glory, not unlike some crumbling ruin of Roman Empire. But while there is truth in that analogy it tells only half the story, because despite the neglected state of the modern sport Italy still holds remarkable treasures for the racing-minded visitor: beautiful tracks, unique races and an astonishing heritage that stretches back more than two millennia to the time of the Caesars and beyond.

Armed with an extremely rudimentary grasp of the Italian language and enough SPF 50 sunscreen to coat the Forth Rail Bridge twice over, I have travelled here to explore this country’s complex and often chaotic relationship with horseracing, and to reflect on its uncertain future, troubled present and glorious past (an inversion of the usual sequence, admittedly, but scheduling is a nightmare in a country that guards its racing calendar as if it detailed the location of the Holy Grail and where only the most illustrious racecourses boast a working website).